How Luxury is Different in China

The more one learns about China, the more one realises how much there is that you don’t know or at least don’t understand. But one thing is certain: it is not as homogenous as many people think.

Full of contradictions, it is both tightly controlled and out of control. It is futuristic and stuck in the past. And the subcultures run deep, but in a more secretive way than any other market.

Importantly, China cares more about China than it does anywhere else in the world. Other markets in the region take some influences directly from American and European pop culture; China always adds its own spin, inspired by traditional references.

And in a society that has long been misogynistic, full of patriarchy and structural inequalities, there is a more individualistic and feminist zeitgeist slowly emerging. This is present across media and certainly in fashion, beauty and the luxury sector.

The opportunity for brands is to be less influenced by traditional media and more influenced by subtle messages from subcultures. From novelists to fan fiction on Bilibili, to the verses of rappers and the jokes from underground comedians, there are signals if you look hard enough. Here are three trends and opportunities for luxury brands:

People are increasingly desperate to show their individual taste

Opportunity for luxury brands: Brands create invite-only communities to show recognition and appreciation for individual tastes, and subcultures, for example around the re-emerging trend for a new take on tea ceremonies.

Brands are scared to be more focused on their customers

Opportunity for luxury brands: Celebrate emerging cultural trends rather than chase the overpriced attention of mainstream media, like how Balenciaga tapped into the #normcore trend for its recent campaign.

Subcultures can break through into the mainstream, but anything created at scale tends to mirror the views of the government

Opportunity for luxury brands: Support new generations of content creators who are deep in culture, but do it in a way that reduces the the risks they face in going mainstream.